Saturday 27 December 2014

From Masters to Servants


‘This part of Pondicherry is neater, not like the rest of the town. Cleaning and garbage collection is done regularly’, the French owner of the hotel we stayed at Pondicherry helpfully informed me, marking the area on the map with a pencil.  ‘This Part’ referred to the region that housed the Aurabindo ashram, the French quarters and the Governor’s bungalow. She was indeed right. A small island of tranquility and order within the usual, dusty and dirty town of Pondicherry. You cross the line evidenced by the heritage buildings and hit the promenade abutting the seashore and the filth stares you in the face. Even in the most touristy place of Pondy.
Things are the same across the country. Civil Lines or ‘posh areas’ or ‘upmarket places’ or by whatever name you call them-all have some common features. Well-maintained roads, better drainage, prompter response by the personnel of electricity, telephone and police department. Invariably, these parts of any city or town are occupied by the ruling elite-ministers, politicians, bureaucrats and other rich people. This is some kind of a sanitized area which creates a feeling of ‘all is well’ among the inhabitants who also happen to be the rulers.
When we hardly face power outages, smell no stench from gutters, glide over newly paved (and repeatedly repaired) roads on a public-funded vehicle (upgraded regularly), can we expect the rulers to be considerate to the everyday tribulations of the public? When the administrators (I strictly refer to the bureaucrats here as it is they who plan and implement schemes on the ground) do not face any hardship in completing daily chores of life, there is bound to be a total disconnect. Only exceptions for this are those officers who are empathetic by nature. But they don’t make them these days in good numbers!
A few years back, while in Raipur, I used to regularly visit Shastri market with my wife for purchasing vegetables. The condition of the place, to put it mildly, was appalling. ‘If the municipal commissioner of Raipur or his/her spouse were to visit the market at least occasionally, would the condition be like this?’, we used to wonder. Similar is the case of sabji mandis in Bangalore too - Russel market, KR market, Madiwala, Yeshwantpur. If the BMTC officers in Bengaluru, including the Managing Director travel in city buses at least once or twice a month, they would come face to face with instances of rash driving, abusive behavior of conductors, parking on the middle of the road, working conditions of the staff, mad evening rush and the plight of school children. This could possibly result in improvement in the service of the BMTC and also some welfare measures for the benefit of the staff.
As an occasional driver, I find it extremely annoying and difficult to drive in the night because of high beam used by many. If the city police commissioner or senior police officers themselves drive in the night once in a while and if they experience the terrible trauma of ordinary drivers, would they continue to be indifferent? Less likely, probably.
One more reason, which I feel makes the babus apathetic to the plight of fellow-citizens is the inflated ego they carry around their person. This air of self-importance blankets us (my salute to the rare but extant exceptions) with such conviction that it blurs our vision. Let me explain this. Can you imagine any public servant addressing an ordinary person as ‘sir’? But should this be not the way? When a person with a grievance goes to the police station to file a complaint, will the constable request him to sit on the chair and ask him, ‘sir, what is your problem?’ When the revenue inspector visits a farm to verify the boundaries, can we expect him to be friendly with the farmer, instead of forcing him to arrange a feast for the ‘sahab’? The very possibility of such a behavior shocks us because of its incredulity. But we are supposed to be the public servants and not masters. Since when the masters started sirring the servants?
We, the babus, irrespective of the service and grade, have a terrible weakness for being sirred. It is said that when two officers meet for the first time, they try to sniff each other’s tail to find out their relative seniority to arrive at a grave decision- whether to sir or to be sirred! Let me quote one instance here. Once, a district collector asked a district forest officer, who happened to be his batch-mate to address him as sir. ‘At least give respect to the chair, not me’, he pleaded a bit feebly with the shell-shocked forester with whom he had trained together for three months in Mussorie.
On a more serious note, I have heard about a police officer who works in a south Indian state, laughing and telling his friends how once an old woman was trying to explain to him her litany of woes in the local language and he could not understand a single word of what she was saying. He felt it funny. Just imagine, had it been mandatory for that apathetic police officer to address the old lady as ‘ma’am’ or something similar, would he have been so indifferent? It is more likely that referring to the ordinary people with respect in their day-to-day functioning (not while the police deal with criminals, or an officer with his staff), will have some sobering effect on the government servants. This in turn could lead to more alacrity in responding to the problems faced by the citizens.
I feel that the mere act of addressing another, especially less-privileged person as sir or ma’am will bring the master and the servant on an almost equal pedestal. This is not leftist or rightist but a humanist approach which the bureaucracy of India needs. Imagine for a moment, any government officer worth his salt in the feudalistic set-up of some parts of India calling a labourer or a tribal as 'aap' instead of 'tum' or 'tu'.
The government has in the recent past come out with a series of measures on bureaucratic overhaul to increase its efficiency. It is my silent wish that in the near future, we are asked to behave like true public servants and not masters.

Happy New Year wishes to all.

Sunday 31 August 2014

Spaces between togetherness


With the demise of Kannada writer UR Ananthamurthy, the literary world has lost a gifted story-teller. URA was a colorful and controversial personality who clearly divided the Kannada readers into URA admirers and URA bashers. Though URA was a scholar in Western literature, he believed that the quality of regional writing is in no way inferior to those of the nobel laureates of the world. He wrote one of the true classics in Indian literature-Sanskara and followed it up with a few more gems like Bharathipura, Bhava and Avasthe. Unfortunately, during the twilight of his celebrated life, he was engaged in a bitter war of words with the admirers of another wonderful writer, the supporters of BJP and people who opposed his worldview. It is sad that even after his death, the muck has not stopped flying from either side of the debate. When emotions run high and reasons take a backseat, it is time to tread with caution.
URA’s caliber as a master story teller was never in doubt. Though not as prolific as Shivaram Karantha or SL Bhyrappa-two doyens of Kannada literature- URA’s oeuvre is rich and enviable. Unlike in the case of Girish Karnad who many believe did not deserve the Jnanapeetha award, nobody questions URA’s merit. He donned several hats in his illustrious career as a writer, academician, administrator and even a politician. Given his socialist leaning and background, he was close to several political leaders. There was a controversy in the 1990s regarding the allotment of a government plot to URA in a posh locality in Bangalore. In the later years, URA became more vocal and strident in his open criticism of the BJP which culminated in an unsavory comment against the incumbent prime minister during the last general elections. Even though he later regretted it and confessed that his remarks were made in the ‘heat of the moment’, the damage was already done. URA was seen to be close to certain political parties and he made no bones about it. He got involved in a public spat with SL Bhyrappa (whose writing is ‘infuriatingly good’ as Aravind Adiga puts it) over the latter’s ideological orientations. Difference of opinions among the literati is good for democracy and also for the common readers. URA was highly critical of Bhyrappa’s controversial book ‘Avarana’ (translated to English as ‘The Veil’) terming him as a debater and not a novelist while Bhyrappa disapproved the very theme and presentation of ‘Sanskara’. So, the dislike was mutual.
But when people start celebrating the passing away of a man, who was definitely not a criminal-either in thought or deed-but only had an opinion different from those of the revelers of death, it is a sad pointer that basic human decency has gone for a toss.
The news of a few people rejoicing the death of URA was shocking enough but what was much more saddening for me is the subtle and sometimes overt justification of this repugnance by the educated, well-read people in social and print media. ‘He once said that he used to urinate on the idols and now god has taught him a lesson’ (URA died of kidney failure), is a common excuse for pillorying URA. I have read his autobiography wherein he describes this incident. He was in high school then and there were niggling questions in his mind on the existence of god. As he explains, his intention was to test whether he would suffer any misfortune because of his act of sacrilege. He concludes by saying that even now, he is unable to accept or debunk the reality of god. Before condemning URA, we need to revisit the Nasadiya Sukta of Rigveda:
“But, after all, who knows, and who can say
Whence it all came, and how creation happened?
The gods themselves are later than creation,
So who knows truly whence it has arisen?
Whence all creation had its origin,
He, whether he fashioned it or whether he did not,
He, who surveys it all from highest heaven,
He knows - or maybe even he does not know”
This was written more than 3000 years ago. We are a land of Charvakas and in the recent past, home to the Dravidian movement. Since when we became intolerant towards the turmoil of an inquisitive teenage mind?
We can always question URA, call him pseudo secular, anti-Bhyrappa or anti-Modi but let us not question his or anybody else’s right to question. While probing URA, let us also use the same yardstick towards Bhyrappa or somebody else whose affiliations or tendencies are of different hue. Unless we guarantee this right to ourselves, unless we encourage healthy debate, we may tread towards the dangerous path of hatred which is becoming increasingly common in our neighbourhood.


PS: My sincere apologies to those who are not familiar with the works of SL Bhyrappa and UR Ananthamurthy. I suggest Parva, Vamsha Vriksha, Daatu and Mandra books of Bhyrappa and Samskara and Bharathipura of URA to the interested. English translations are available. Parva is an all-time classic and considered to be one of the great literary works of the twentieth century.

Sunday 6 July 2014

Sea of Tranquility- a visit to Ladakh


How do you describe an increasingly popular tourist destination that has none of the de rigueur touristy sights to offer? No parks, no boating, no zoo, no safari and yes, no plastic bags. And less of oxygen too! In brief, Ladakh is vast emptiness and empty vastness. But for the layers and layers of mountains tipped with unblemished snow; gompas (Buddhist monasteries) and more gompas perched on daunting hills; golden and enigmatically smiling statues of Buddha; old chortens (stupas) dotting the landscape in every which direction you go; yaks grazing on the steep hillsides with the surefootedness of goats; serene lakes in out of the world settings and smiling, helpful people. To borrow the words of astronomers, the landscape of Ladakh is ‘magnificent desolation’ and ‘sea of tranquility’.
What then, is the magnet that draws thousands of backpackers, bikers, cyclists, adventurers, trekkers and the common noisy visitors to this remote corner of the country every summer? We found the answer during our ten-day stay at this hauntingly beautiful place.
Ladakh had been in my ‘to do’ list for over a decade now. Somehow, things fell in place only this year.
Even before you land on the Ladakhi soil, the visual treat begins. Halfway through the Delhi-Leh flight, a glance through the window reveals the Himalayan ranges unfold thousands of feet below in an unending glory till the horizon. What stunning majesty!

view of the Himalayas from the plane window

siya flowers which are found commonly in Ladakh

prayer wheels at Alchi

Sindhu and  Zanskar sangam near Leh

When we land, the weather is a bit foggy and damp with a clear chill in the air. Sticking to the general advice, we do not venture out on the first day and stay mostly indoors. Leh is at an altitude of 11300 feet from the MSL and Acute Mountain Sickness is not uncommon to the visitors, especially to those who arrive by flight.
Over the next nine days, we visit several gompas, witness the breathtaking beauty of three lakes, take a ride on a Bactrian camel, cross three highest motorable passes in the world, sight blue sheep, Himalayan Tahr, Tibetan wild ass, Bar-headed geese and finally, as icing on the cake, spot the Black-necked crane. We could not have asked for more.



Liker gompa with a golden Buddha


Leh palace

Buddha at Shanti Stupa, Leh

curious onlooker 

view of Leh town from Leh palace

black-billed magpie

Leh palace

at Nubra valley
The drive along the scary roads of ladakh is nothing short of a pleasure, thanks to the praiseworthy work by BRO. The signboards cautioning drivers about the perils of carelessness are delightful. Here are a few samples-'drive like hell and you will be there', 'short cuts will cut short your life'.
The Pangong Lake, made popular by Aamir Khan in ‘3 idiots’ is spectacular and idyllic. This salt water lake is about 134 km long and three fourth of the stretch lies in China-controlled Tibet. The water shimmers in hues of green and blue and the setting of the lake in a valley surrounded by high mountains is mesmerizing.

drive to Pangong lake

brown-headed gull at Pangong

Pangong lake

Pangong lake



Diskit Gompa

Sand dunes near Hunder

Camel riding at Hunder

Bactrian camels

view of Nubra valley



Nubra valley

when god paints the peaks


a schoolgirl at Turtuk

golden paintings



a small lake on the way




pashmina goats

Himalayan mormot





ruddy shelduck

Tibetan wild ass or Kiang





Pangong-at sunset

Pangong

Pangong-after sunset

Mountains near Pangong-early morning

Rufous-backed redstart-female



Rufous-backed redstart-male

Kiangs-in their natural habitat
Blue sheep


Yaks grazing

Hemis gompa



white wagtail








bar-headed geese at Tso-Moriri


Tso Moriri


Horned lark-female

Tso Moriri



Tso Kar

Kiangs at Tso Kar
In Ladakh, there are gompas galore. Always balanced on high mountains, it is nothing short of a mini-exercise to reach them. The temples of Buddha in most of these gompas are always quiet, peaceful and soothing, as we found in Diskit and Aclhi. The serenity one feels here is similar to the temples in the hills of Uttaranchal or the small, tiled shrines in the Western Ghats.
The presence of military is everywhere and they have struck a very good rapport with the locals. There is no unnecessary checking or frisking. In these isolated corners of the country, with a neighbor like China, you feel indebted to the lone rangers of the army. Our driver Rigzin tells that the army men are happy to see the tourists because once the visitors depart in September, it is a lonely, long and icy winter until April.
It was pleasantly surprising for us to notice that plastic bags/covers are completely banned in the entire district of Ladakh. Even in the remote village of Turtuk, bordering Pakistan, shopkeepers were using only paper/cloth bags. How I wish for such farsightedness among our administrators in Bangalore!

A nomadic woman at Changthang grasslands

Black-necked crane, the ultimate treat of our trip



Himalayan Tahr


Himalayan Tahr




Stupas 
Before I wind up, a few points about the perils of unregulated tourism. I was shocked and saddened to see plastic bottles, beer bottles, biscuit and chips packets strewn along the way to all major tourist destinations. At Pangong lake, tents are pitched right on the banks and it was a common sight to see people consuming alcohol. A place which is to be revered, respected and appreciated in silence is being defiled with impunity. There are hardly any regulations and nobody to enforce discipline. The vast grasslands of Changtang which provide sustenance and livelihood to the nomadic tribes and also to the wildlife are being destroyed by the tourists. Without understanding the importance of these grasslands, visitors take their four-wheelers all over the place. At Tso Kar, I was mortified to see jeeps driven to the very edge of the lake for ‘better sighting’ of the cranes. It is no wonder that the Black-necked cranes have moved further up since the spurt in tourism industry.
One last point on the ‘heights of self-importance’. Near Pangong lake and also at the Sangam of Zanskar and Indus river, we were witness to the use of red beacons and sirens by army officers. Imagine this. Barring a few vehicles and a handful of visitors, there is nobody around except for the bare mountains and then you hear sirens blaring shattering the quietude and an army officer -with family, of course- zooms past in a black Ambassador with a pilot vehicle leading the way. Now, who can beat that!?